Over the past several years, the beauty industry has seen a surge in the latest techniques and treatments. Call it a beauty-tech revolution, if you will. From top of the line products with the best formulas to the most innovative services, the beauty realm has become so much more than just makeup, skincare, and laser treatments. In the world of semi-permanent makeup, nanoblading is the latest technique in eyebrow enhancement to achieve a natural looking brow.
To help navigate the brow technique that uses ultra-fine needles to ink on impossibly lifelike brow hairs, we reached out to a tattoo artist and two dermatologists, who know the ins and outs of this procedure's affect on the skin. Keep reading to learn more about the exciting world of nanoblading, and if the cosmetic procedure is right for you.
Meet the Expert
- Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD is a board-certified dermatologistand a clinical assistant professor at Cornell University.
- Blair Murphy Rose, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified cosmetic, medical, and surgical dermatologist atLaser & Skin Sugery Center of New York.
- Shaughnessy Otsuji is the owner and Restorative Tattoo Artist at Studio Sashiko.
What Is Nanoblading?
Nanoblading is a semi-permanent cosmetic technique and form of brow tattooing that uses ultra-fine needles to create precise and natural-looking hair strokes on the eyebrows. According to board-certified dermatologist, Marisa Garshick, MD, the term "nano" in nanoblading refers to "the incredibly small size of the needles used, which allows the technician to create very fine and detailed strokes that mimic the appearance of real eyebrow hairs."
"Just like with microblading, the pigment is deposited superficially and the duration of pigment retention after nanoblading depends on factors including how frequently you exfoliate and sun exposure in addition to genetics," says board-certified cosmetic, medical, and surgical dermatologist, Blair Murphy-Rose, MD.
Benefits of Nanoblading
Nanoblading comes with a number of potential brow benefits:
- Lasts longer than microblading (about one to three years)
- Helps brows appear fuller and more natural-looking
- Customizable for each individual
- Nanoblading tools allow for more controlled application than microblading for ultra-precise hair strokes, which Dr. Garshick says "may create a more realistic appearance and makeup won’t need to be applied every day to enhance the look of your eyebrows."
- Requires less touch-up maintenance, which reduces the long-term cost and time commitment.
How Long Does It Last?
The upside of nano brows versus micro brows is how long they stick around on the skin. Where microblading lasts around one to two years due to the depth of the pigment placement, nanoblading can last up to three years—though the timeframe is largely dependent on the pigment color, depth, ink type, intensity of work, and the client's skin. Oily skin, for example, tattoo artist Shaughnessy Otsuji says, may fade nano brows faster because oily skin by nature has a quicker cell turnover rate. "Touch-ups are usually required once every year or two to keep the brows looking fresh," she adds, making nano brows a long-term commitment.
Nanoblading vs. Microblading
"They differ in the needle size used and consequently, the level of precision," says Dr. Garshick. "Nanoblading uses smaller needles than microblading which allows for a higher degree of precision and accuracy, and therefore, even finer, more detailed lines."
Dr. Murphy-Rose notes that due to the finer tip, nanoblading may deliver pigment deeper than microblading and, therefore, last longer than microblading. It may also cause less discomfort, which makes nanoblading a better option for those with sparser eyebrows or those with no eyebrows due to conditions like alopecia, adds Dr. Garshick.
"Withmicroblading, theprocedure is slightly more invasive as thetoolhas a blade thatcuts into the skin—due to this, the skill level of the artist becomes slightly more important towards achievinganatural-looking result," adds Otsuji.
Who Should Get Nanoblading?
While microblading is best suited for those with normal to dry skin, the beauty of nanoblading technology is that it's available for far more skin types. People with very oily, scarred, textured, or thick skin can be great candidates for the technique, as well as those with previously tattooed brows who may be looking for corrective work, Otsuji says. Nanoblading can also be a great option for those dealing with hair loss from alopecia areata. Ultimately, both microblading and nanoblading are ideal for anyone looking for easy, budge-proof brows as no amount of sweat, water, or contact will rub them off.
However, both dermatologists caution that if you have sensitive skin or tend to have skin hypersensitivity reactions, it would be best to do a test spot before undergoing nanoblading. "It may be wise to avoid nanoblading if you tend to develop hypertrophic or keloid scars as nanoblading creates trauma in the skin," says Dr. Murphy-Rose. "People with a history of eczema, psoriasis, or other skin conditions should consult their dermatologist before proceeding," adds Dr. Garshick.
Byrdie Tip
If you have dry skin, you may have a longer healing time and may need to be more diligent with aftercare, notes Dr. Garshick. To combat this, inform your nanoblading artist of your skin type before hand and ask for extra hydrating moisturizer recommendations to use for post-care.
How to Prepare
To prepare for microblading or nanoblading, your skin should be its best natural state. "You shouldn’t have any Botox within two weeks of your appointment and no chemical peels within one month of your appointment," says Dr. Garshick, who also says to stop the use of retinols on the area to reduce the potential for irritation. "The area should not be tanned or sunburned the day of the appointment, and you'll also want to avoid waxing, tweezing, threading, or tinting the area within a week of the appointment."
Like many treatments that can cause trauma to the skin, Dr. Murphy-Rose stresses the importance to avoid things that increase bleeding like "alcohol, ibuprofen, aspirin. fish oil and vitamin E supplements for 24-48 hours before your appointment unless medically necessary." "Discuss with your medical provider prior to discontinuing any medications and be sure to let your microblading artist know if you have any allergies," she adds.
What to Expect
Before committing to nano brows, Otsuji encourages thorough research to make sure both the technique and artist align with your skin's needs and desired results. While it can be helpful to bring in inspirational photos, at Otsuji's Studio Sashiko, each eyebrow tattoo is entirely customized and individualized to suit each client, a bar to consider mentally setting for any studio before scheduling an appointment. "We strive to create the most realistic results by adding strategicdetails and dimension that complement their natural features and choosing colors that suit their skin best," she says.
According to Otsuji, a typical nanoblading session runs between two to four hours, with the first half of the appointment dominated by consultation and brow design. It's then that the client and artist discuss everything from desired brow shape, style, and size to deciding the right pigments and shades. "An assessment of the client’s skin type is also important to determine if there may be more technical skill required to achieve the end result," she adds. Once a "before" photo is snapped, a special pencil is used to temporarily draw on each hair stroke for final review and approval before actually beginning the inking process. If you've ever had a regular body tattoo, you'll be familiar with this pre-draw stage—it's like when your tattoo artist places that temporary appliqué where the art will go.
Once it's time for the procedure itself, a topical anesthetic is applied (Otsuji cites Zensa as one commonly used numbing agent) and the machine is prepared. "A single moving needle and machine is used to slowly implant pigment into the skin," Otsuji says, and "this process can take some time as each individual stroke is meticulously drawn using the tattoo machine. Once the brow shape is filled with nano strokes, the client will take a look and discuss any additions." For example, if the desired effect is a much darker, fluffier, or overall fuller-looking brow, more nano strokes can be layered in a follow-up appointment so as to not excessively irritate the skin.
Key Takeaways
- A nanoblading session typically takes two to four hours. A large part of that will be discussing with your artist about your desired outcome.
- The prep process is similar to a tattoo. A stencil will be applied to your brows pre-tattooing to see what the end result will look like.
- Generally, a topical aesthetic is applied to the skin before starting the procedure. Our experts describe the pain as "mildly uncomfortable."
The Pain
One point to not stress over? The pain level. While tattoos, in general, are usually at least somewhat painful, the typical numbing creams used for brow tattoos mitigate that almost entirely. "Nano brows can be mildly uncomfortable but is rarely considered painful or unbearable," Otsuji confirms. She says that while there will be some minor redness and swelling immediately following the procedure, it should subside within a day or two.
Side Effects
Nanoblading is generally safe, but like any cosmetic procedure, it can have some side effects. According to Dr. Garshick, people may experience temporary redness, swelling, and minor discomfort immediately after the procedure. Dr. Murphy-Rose says that you can potentially expect " infection, scarring, hypersensitivity reactions and tenderness." Call your doctor if you begin to experience burning, pain, fever, rash, or if the area feels hot to the touch.
While some clients may experience itching during the healing process due to trauma to the skin, both experts note that in rare instances, this can mean an allergic reaction. Otsuji adds that "scabs post-procedure are common as your brows heal, and peeling a few days after the procedure is often part of the healing process." However, proper aftercare can help minimize these effects.
In addition to wearing sunscreen to protect your skin every day, you'll want to be extra diligent to avoid pre-fading from nanoblading. "The colored pigment may degrade over time, so touchups are occasionally needed," says Otsuji. "Poor aftercare and/or harsh chemicals can also affect the longevity and appearance of the nanobladed brows," adds Dr. Garshick.
The Cost
Like most tattoos and cosmetic procedures alike, the price of nanoblading largely depends on geographic location, techniques used, and the artist's level of expertise—and reputation. Typically, the service starts at around $500 and can climb to $2000 or more. One major consideration to factor in is the cost of post-nanoblading maintenance. Because of the semi-permanent ink, annual or biannual maintenance appointments are required but Otsuji says they're generally offered at a reduced price.
Aftercare
Strict adherence to artist-prescribed aftercare is crucial for proper healing, both for your skin and the look of your new brows. While your artist will tell you exactly what to do for your lifestyle, region, and tattoo, sweating, sun exposure, swimming, and makeup/skincare is strictly off-limits for at least two weeks. "At StudioSashiko, we recommend keeping your fresh brows clean by regularly blotting the area with a damp paper towel or sterile water wipe, and then gently patting dry afterward," Otsuji suggests. "This will help remove any excess build-up of lymph, pigment, or oil to reduce the amount of scabbing that occurs."
Dr. Garshick recommends cleaning brows with a gentle cleanser, but to avoid excessive moisture, to prevent pigment loss. Dr. Murphy-Rose recommends applying an ointment like Aquaphor or Vaseline while healing to keep the brows hydrated.
During the healing process, Otsuji says to expect some light peeling starting around three to seven days after the procedure, but under no circ*mstances (though it's very tempting) should it be picked at, pulled, exfoliated, or scrubbed. After you're fully healed, she recommends continuing to steer clear of chemical exfoliants or sun exposure in that area—this will help maintain the integrity of the nano brows so they last even longer.
The Takeaway
If you have the means to access a qualified artist, nano brows can be the solution to daily brow-building woes—pencils, waxes, pomades, and soap become obsolete when you have a pair of perfect custom brows. But because they last so long, it's worth thinking long and hard about (especially the subsequent years of touchups) before taking the plunge. One thing's for certain, though: at the rate semi-permanent makeup techniques are evolving, we're looking at an eyebrow revolution.
